Paris Day 2 - Chartres

OK, so not really Paris at all. But it wasn't far. And our guidebook described Chartres cathedral as "the crowning architectural glory of Western civilisation". And who could miss that?

In case anyone reading this is similarly inclined, the trains go from Montparnasse station and cost 14 euros per person each way. Chartres is a pretty enough little town, though there doesn't seem a huge amount to it other than the cathedral. (Which is nice.) Many hundreds of photos will follow when my camera issue is resolved - the carving everywhere is exquisite. If you're very lucky, I'll even look up the historical blurb for you, rather than making you google it. Aren't I kind?

If you're going to Chartres, though, don't leave it too late for lunch. Eat before 12:30. (My boyfriend has just pointed out that our experience may not be universal, and I shouldn't generalise like this. He has a point - take this as a disclaimer of sorts for the entire blog and all entries past and future.) I say this because we didn't try finding lunch until about 13:00, and the restaurant we chose, in the middle of the tourist district, ran out of eggs, so I couldn't have an omelette. Not daunted, I ordered the plat du jour, only to find they'd run out of that too. I settled for a Greek salad, which was nice enough. But I wanted an omelette. So, you should learn from this and eat early.

The station platform numbering system in Chartres is also interesting. By which I mean functionally innumerate. Platforms go: 1B, 2, 2, 2B, 6, 8, 12. No indication as to what happened to numbers in between. Like 5. Poor 5. Cut off in the prime of his life.

I'm being very antisocial. So I shall leave you now. Tomorrow, you may get a bumper weekend edition of the blog, letting you know all about the canal St Martin, La Vilette, free concerts and the Louvre. Or not, depending on my mood at the time.

Oh, while I remember, my sale has been extended into August. So if you're looking for unique jewellery, go look at my Etsy shop - prices are 40% off until the end of August.

Read more...

Sanremo, Italy

At the beginning of this week, we went to Sanremo in Italy for lunch. It's a little bit further along the coast from Ventimiglia, and so, so much nicer. Ventimiglia (Ventimille in French) is, frankly, ugly. Its sole redeeming feature is the Friday market, where you can buy clothes, shoes and handbags at less extortionate prices than the shops in Nice charge, but where you run the risk of having your handbag stolen. Swings and roundabouts...

Anyway, this is about Sanremo, which is much nicer. It's another town that people clearly actually live in, the sun was shining, and we had lunch by the port where a friendly waitress compensated for my dismal Italian by speaking good French. That close to the border, I suppose it's a useful skill!

We walked around the old town - one of the few places that I've seen where tourists are encouraged to go, but which looks actively dodgy. They have sort of done the old town up, and put tourist signs up in 3 languages explaining what we're looking at, but the area is still obviously a poor one. Still, a pretty town overall, and one I'd happily consider if we're still around here next August when we're evicted for our annual month of landlady's summer holidays.

Photos from the day...

Sanremo - every day is a special day. (Such relentless positivity is luckily not widespread.)

An extremely narrow building, even for round here!

A fountain in one of the courtyards by the old Palais de Justice (I think!)

Pretty streets in the old town:

Religious fresco, randomly dotted above a doorway in the old town:

Giant tree in a park at the bottom of the hill leading to the cathedral. Originally covered in more houses, they were destroyed in an earthquake (followed by a Genovese attack) in the 18th century, and no rebuilding was allowed because it was deemed an unsafe site. Replaced by this lovely park, beloved of the wife of the first King of Italy.

Another fountain, near the cathedral

Cathedral photos:

Interior of the cathedral:

Views from the cathedral steps:

Remnants of defense tower built in the 1500s:

Another pretty street:

Sunshine in the port:

I want to own this house:

Read more...

The Russian Church in Nice

Nice has a long history with Russia's rich and famous, and the Tsars (plus entourage) regularly came to Nice to escape the bitter Russian winters. They bought their religion with them, eschewing French Catholicism for Russian Orthodoxy, and the Cathedral of Saint Nicolas was built as a worthy place for a Tsar to worship. Note the abundance of Romanov eagles.

These days, the Russian community in Nice is still a strong one, and restaurants and estate agents often advertise their ability to speak Russian. The Cathedral of Saint Nicolas remains a focal point for the Nicois Russian community, despite a recent effort by the Russian State to claim that the church and its land belongs to them.

This site tells me:

[The church] has 6 onion domes and is built in the form of a Greek cross (ie. 4 equal arms). The exterior is richly decorated in mosaic. The style is based on the Laroslavl church in Moscow. Particularly striking is the large representation of the Turin Shroud held aloft by an angel. Before this made its way to Turin it was one of the holiest relics of the Russian Orthodox Church, kept in the city of Odessa on the Black Sea. There is a small charge to go inside. The interior is also richly decorated, with icons in silver gilt cases and jewel-encrusted treasures.

We didn't go inside - on principle, I dislike buildings that charge a fee to go inside, particularly churches - so I will take their word for the description of the inside; photos of the outside follow, though... Isn't it pretty?

Read more...